20 volume developer is a developer with moderately high alkalinity, resulting in medium development of the film.
As opposed to most other developers, 20 volume works well at room temperature – there is no need to heat it to be effective.
This makes it an excellent choice if one has little experience processing film, as one can mix the chemicals and start developing.
The 20 volume contains half of the active hydrogen peroxide in a normal strength 10 volume and is suitable to use on blondes and lighter colors.
The 20 volume can lift color that is three levels lighter than your roots or natural hair color.
Unlike other developers that contain very high levels of hydrogen peroxide, the 20 volume developer doesn’t deposit much toning material, and it should therefore not be used for toning purposes in blondes.
The 20 volume developer can lift color that is three levels lighter than your roots or natural hair color.
This number should only be used when processing colored hair because it’s too strong for virgin hair and can cause severe damage.
When to Use 20 Volume Developer
Generally, 20 volume developers will be used to lift dark levels of hair color or if there is stubborn gray coverage.
This includes cases where the client has requested permanent hair color but doesn’t want it too light (as they are afraid of bleaching), or they just need a good mid-tone level boost on their natural levels.
It is important to understand that the higher the volume level, the more damage your hair will incur, and it will break off more.
It is better to go lighter than darker when using this solution.
20 volume developers are available in most professional color lines, and they come in varying degrees of strength.
If you have a very dark or stubborn tone of color, you might want to use a high-volume developer. If the color isn’t very dark, or you have a lot of gray coverage, go with a lower volume developer.
The tip – If you want a lighter shade, it’s better to fade the current color with a 10 volume, then use a 20 volume to lift your natural level. It’s less damaging and will give you the extra boost of lightness without all the damage from going from dark to bleach blonde!
How to Use 20 Volume
You should always make sure to mix 20 volume developer with 40 volume oxidizer. This combination gives you the best results.
20 volume developer is an extremely strong solution containing hydrogen peroxide and water, adjusted to a pH of 12-13 using ammonia.
Never apply 20 volume developer straight; it can cause chemical burns! Mix one part 20 volume developer with three parts toner or color (Fox, 2018).
Apply 20 volume developer to dry hair, avoiding the scalp. Leave it on for no more than 12 minutes, and apply heat if possible (a hairdryer). Rinse thoroughly in lukewarm water.
It’s important not to leave the solution on your hair any longer than directed because it can cause hair to become dry and brittle.
20 volume developer should never be mixed with lower levels of developer, as it could cause a chemical reaction that leads to hair breakage.
If you’re looking for professional-quality color, 20 volume developers are the way to go. Just make sure to mix correctly, follow instructions for use closely, and protect your skin.
A high-volume developer helps with this issue. 20 volume developers are used on the hair when a client has previously been exposed to multiple bleaching procedures and has extremely resistant blonde hair that won’t lift.
It’s also commonly used by stylists who want to get rid of unwanted warm tones in the hair. If you’re using a 20 volume developer, you’re going to leave it on the hair for longer than usual: between 25 and 35 minutes.
20 volume developers can take up to three times as long as other volumes to lift the color from the hair – so be patient!
After processing, rinse your client’s hair thoroughly and carry out a final cold water rinse.
Note: if you’re new to using 20 volume developers, make sure you read the safety information on the back of your box before you start.
Can I Use 20 Developers on Dark Brown Hair to Make it Darker?
Hair color works by depositing molecules of dye onto the surface of your hair.
If you want a darker shade, likely, there aren’t enough dye molecules in one single coloring, which is why you can’t get as dark as you would like.
If you want to go darker than the natural color, you need to use a permanent dye that contains peroxide. It works by opening the cuticle and allowing the molecules of color into the hair shaft.
This is known as semi-permanent and will not lift any existing color from your hair so, if you have dark brown hair, you would have to use a permanent color or bleach it first.
The use of 20 developers on dark brown hair is an extremely dangerous step that can result in severe damage or color stripping.
This treatment may work for a very short time, but the damage outweighs the benefits.
Hair developer helps the users to achieve their desired hair color by opening the hair cuticles to allow the color to penetrate.
20 volume is great for beginners who are new to processing their films and looking for an easy way to get into it.
Follow the application instructions keenly, and you will achieve your desired hair color.
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